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Evidence-based Training for Climbing. Samples of MaxHangs training programs. Dead-hangs training guide. Preliminary evaluation.

The first blog entry in this series. If you need a refresher, here it is. But in reality we could use these same proposal methods to work on every grip type we are interested to enhance: Open hand, sloper strength and pinch strength.

Depending on which training goal we chose, we would be talking about edge size or more generally, difficulty of the hold. For instance, if we want to enhance our open hand grip strength, we should choose edges, but these should be more rounded edges, or with softer edges, compared to half-crimp.

If we want to work on sloper strength, we would use balls or slopers of different difficulty slope and diameter for adjusting the intensity.

Lately, for working on our pinch strength, we could use a non-hanging device such as pinch blocks of different width or depth.

Only for certain climbers profile could be recommended certain types of hanging or bodyweight exercises see this entry like dead-hangs or others. What most people are waiting for, right?

During impact microcycles or extended periods using high loads, leave 72 h between sessions to facilitate recovery. The same can be beneficial in these cases:.

Order in the session and in the microcycle. Where to place it in the session. A maximal dead-hangs workout MaxHangs, see the glossary here should always be the first content of the session.

Intermittent dead-hangs IntHangs and SubHangs also work better at the start of the session, unless the main content for the day is boulder, in which case the hangs will be after it, and before other climbing-based [power-]endurance methods if there are any.

This is valid for linear, nonlinear or undulating periodizations see next section. If you train 2 days per week: follow the rule set in 3.

You are already familiar with the principle of progression , one of the three principles every training plan must honor with specificity and personalization ; the idea is to apply increasing, strong but not excessive stimuli, spaced enough for recovery, aiming to gain performance while avoiding injury or overtraining more correctly, non-functional overreaching.

The variable we will be tuning depends on our goals:. For more on these adaptations look at this entry. This is a staple of periodization, and I propose you use it when starting with ANY of the methods , up to the point where playing with this parameter does not yield further gains.

This approach is also recommended when restarting training after holidays, rest periods or some injuries. Some patterns and their explanation:. We can reach up to 8 sets of MaxHangs during a 6-week cycle if we rest for about 2 weeks after.

We designed our week plan and successfully completed it, what are our alternatives at this point? There are several:.

In the IntHangs methods it is common, every weeks, to alter the pause between repetitions, then the pause between sets and later the number of repetitions per set; in the long term we can change the hanging duration for each repetition.

Finally MaxHangs , where varying the intensity is the way to go; as the intensity goes up the hanging time or the margin to failure go down, also in week periods.

For such training goals we should use more rounded edges, with softer edges, compared to half-crimp for open hand training; balls or slopers of different difficulty slope and diameter and pinch blocks of different width or depth for the pinch grip workouts using dead-hangs for improving strength for this latter grip type wouldn't be recommendable except for certain climbers profile.

When we are working our endurance with the IntHangs and SubHangs methods we have two possibilities:. In other words, try to make this absolute intensity into a lighter relative load a lower percentage of our maximal strength.

This way the relative intensity is stable while the absolute intensity goes up. The rest of parameters stay the same while the margin would go from 5 to 3 seconds.

The following example shows how this translates into a change in intensity:. Those among you familiar with 3-second margins , which places you in the intermediate level group, can experiment with 2 and 1-second margins in some cycle.

The same three-second margin is harder in a second dead-hang than in a 6-second one. When the margin is too short the expected neural effects can be compromised while metabolic and structural changes are favored, in the form of hypertrophy or enhanced substrate repletion, even if we respect the recovery periods between sessions and mix them correctly with the rest of contents.

This said, there are special cases where we can skip the margin modification altogether and directly alter the dead-hang duration:.

One example:. This is the now familiar week planning; we could then switch to:. But we should not forget that even in endurance methods the rest periods must make it possible to sustain the average intensity that we want throughout the workout.

In this method we have already stated that making the rest interval length shorter is not terribly useful; the opposite is true, though, and we can rest for more than 3 minutes in the following situations:.

When deciding which method to choose for each case you first need to be familiar with the effects of the tools available.

To learn more about intermittent dead-hangs you can visit this blog post and this last one shows why it is better to start with a method were no added weight is used MED hangs if you are new to hangboarding, and when you could start with added weight MAW hangs.

In general, if we seek long-term gains , the way to obtain greater and more sustainable improvements is to periodically change the stimulus by tuning one variable or other.

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